Outdoor Pavilion Installation Plans

This is a beautiful outdoor pavilion installation plans, ideal for entertaining or enjoying the outdoors. An additional pergola at the rear provides more than 80 square feet of storage space. So you can install 100 feet of shelves and still have plenty of room to hang tools in the yard.

Start With a Flat Floor

You can choose the perfect level ground; There is no slope. But the best ground will be at shed level and then tilt slightly to allow rainwater to run away from the building. Whether you do it yourself or hire a contractor, make sure the floor space is flat. If not, it took us hours to do complex ground compensation.

Pre-painted and Dyed Everything

It will take many hours to paint all the sides, trim and ceiling and to tint the cedar. But it’s worth doing before construction begins. Once the construction is complete, it is a bigger job, and the finished project will look less clear. You still need to do the grooming, but it only takes a few hours.

Traditional wooden structures require a lot of wood, specialized tools and rare skills. But we skipped all of that. Instead, we used wood-plastic materials to create a heavy wood facade for the gables and beams. The technology requires only basic framework tools and know-how. Even better, we don’t have to put a lot of parts in place. We just put the “lighter material” in the middle and add one at a time.

Step by Step Implementation of The Outdoor Pavilion Installation Project

Step 1- Mark the Layout

If your floor is square and has a straight edge, you can measure the floor area from the edge to arrange the building. Otherwise, you will need to use the 3-4-5 triangle method. The first is the long wall of the outdoor pavilion, and then the short side, which extends to the position of the pillars to support the outside of the pavilion. These lines will mark the external pillars on one side of the pavilion. Then align the lines to mark the inner and outer edges of all four pavilion locations.

Pavilion Layout Footprint

Chalk lines outline the walls of the shed and extend to the posts. Carefully check the accuracy and squareness of the layout; Mistakes can waste time and cause frustration later.

Step 2- First Frame The Outdoor Pavilion

The frames are all standard 16 inches. You need to purchase 10 feet. Cut it into proper 9 feet. One inch high. You also need to double the base plate (processed at the bottom; Left untreated) to obtain the required spacing of the 1-1/2 inch Seven Trust WPC side panels above the slab. Note that the bower wall frame includes a position for the side beams.

To Build The Wall Panel

Start building the walls of the pavilion and then support them vertically. The walls are standard frames, but over 9 feet high. The floor is doubled so that the walls can be raised from the concrete by 1-1/2 inches.

Step 3- Install The Side Beams of The Outdoor Pavilion Installation

Now only the outer columns closest to the scaffolding are to be installed. Drop them in both directions and support them. Notch the top of the triple 2×10 side beam to place in the beam bag so that they can be fixed under the two roofs of the shed and placed simultaneously on the triple support beam shear. Slide them into one at a time, screw them into the struts, and screw each other in three stacked 3-inches. The nails are spaced 12 inches apart. Place the triple beam on the 2×4 horizontal beam screwed to the 6×6 column. They will be strictly supported later.

Secure the base of the column with bolts and stand on the rear external column. The other columns are placed later. Prop up the pole into the shed. When both columns are up, a horizontal beam is installed between them to reinforce them.

Set the side beam, each side beam is composed of three 2x10s. Instead of installing 2x10s separately, lift the heavy assembly beam into place. Place one end on the ledger, then slide the other end into a slot in the shed wall.

Step 4- Set Up The Mountain Spine of The Outdoor Pavilion Installation

There are two mountain spines: a short beam on the hut and a long main beam on the pavilion. They locked each other directly on the shed wall. First cut and nail the triple support nail together, then nail the toe nail directly onto the longer triple nail below. Support them in both directions. Place the shed spine on the support column and add the main spine. Life is made easier at this point by running a tape measure from the ceiling of the shed, the side beams of the summerhouse to the top of the beams to ensure they are parallel. Attention to the cutting and shaping of the top beam will be rewarded as they are almost identical.

Cut off the top of the gable and tilt it against the ridge. Then fill the gable bolts and stack them directly on top of the shed bolts. Then put the shed on and secure it next to the shed. Now, these steps are much easier than when the roof is open.

Supporting the backbone of the shed: three 2×4 supports are constructed with two shed walls as the center. Vertical support bracket. Place the assembled shed beam on the bracket and secure it in place.

Add girders: cut trim at the end of each 2×12. Place one end on the vertical support and connect the other end to the trellis beam. If you have a 7-foot assistant, it’s easier to set up beams.

Build a shed gable: place the top of the gable and fill the gable bolt directly above the gable bolt. Once this is done, the shed is ready for sheathing, house wrapping and wainscoting.

Step 5- Frame The Roof

Use 4-inch screws to push the first two sheds through the siding. And use them to position the remaining screws in all directions. Use four 3-inch toes to screw the remaining screws onto the ridge. Hexagon socket screw and side beam with 3 4-inch screws. You will install them after completing the gable end and setting up the remaining beam plates. Draw a line on the end of the screw 11 feet from the ridge line and cut off the ends before connecting the side panels.

All your attention to detail is rewarded here. It is easier to cut by placing a square footprint and making the side beam parallel to the ridge. Start at the corner adjacent to the shed wall. Cut off one of the pillars to fit yourself, then use it as a pattern to cut off the rest. Mark and cut one at a time so you can test fit and make changes as needed.

Make a Column Pattern

Cut a post to fit one side of a pavilion on a shed wall. Each column has a notch for the side beam. Cutting out the beak correctly will require trial and error. When perfect, use the first column as a marker for other styles.

Step 6- Build The Gable of The Outdoor Pavilion Installation

Cut and assemble the 2×6 leg, then twist its horizontal and toes onto a single column on each corner column 10-1/2 inches below the side beam. Further support is provided with temporary 2×4 brackets before the gable is assembled. It looks a bit complicated, but by holding the parts in place and marking them, you’ll find that it’s a simple process of cutting the parts and tightening them into place.

Stand the remaining posts and screw them onto the posts and side posts. After hanging it down and fixing it, use a chainsaw to cut it flush with the top of the column. Then install the remaining columns. Use 18 inches by 9/16 inches. Drill bit as much as possible. Complete the hole with 12 inches. And 6 inches with 9/16 inch shovel expansion (end to end coupling). At first. You only need to drill a few inches to complete the hole. Fasten the components together with 20-inch bolts. Frame bolts, washers and nuts.

Build The First Floor of The Gable

The front gable is made up of three layers, much like a beam. This gives the summerhouse a heavy wooden frame appearance without wooden frame tools and skills. Test assemble all the parts of the first layer, then remove them and use them as templates for the third layer.

Add a Second Gable Layer

Cut the parts to fit the first layer. The best way to make sure they fit is to pin them in place and tag them. Note that the “tail” on the second layer is the separate part.

Finish The Gable Installation of The Outdoor Pavilion Installation

Tighten all second tier parts and add the same third tier as the first tier. The last layer is the most obvious, so make these joints tight!

Step 7- Finish The Top of The Pavilion

To cover the roof, lay 3/8 inches. Side plate down and secure in place. They don’t need a lot of nails because they will be covered by 5/8 inches. Oriented particle board. Then add 5/8 inches. OSB layer, fixed in 2-3/8-in. The nails are spaced 4 inches on the perimeter and 8 inches on site. Next, install three levels of panels that overlap the gable panels on the eaves.

Cover the roof with a double sheath. The first is to place the wainscoting face down to decorate the ceiling. The second is the standard OSB sheath. Together they provide enough thickness to cover the roof nails. Nails on three levels of decorative board flush with the roof guard. When this is done, the roof is ready with shingles!